The Hidden History of Ourense: A Galician City at the Crossroads of Climate Change and Cultural Resilience

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Ourense’s Ancient Roots: From Roman Baths to Medieval Crossroads

Nestled in the heart of Galicia, Ourense is a city where history whispers through its cobblestone streets and thermal springs. Founded by the Romans as Aquis Aurensis (Golden Waters), its legacy as a spa town dates back over 2,000 years. The iconic As Burgas thermal springs, still bubbling at 60°C today, were once a sacred site for pre-Roman tribes. But Ourense’s history isn’t just about relaxation—it’s a story of survival.

The Roman Footprint

The Romans didn’t just leave behind baths; they built bridges like the Ponte Romana (later rebuilt in the Middle Ages), which became a critical node on the Via XVIII, linking Braga and Astorga. This infrastructure turned Ourense into a trade hub, a role it would reprise centuries later during the Camino de Santiago’s golden age.

Medieval Struggles and the Camino’s Shadow

By the 12th century, Ourense was a battleground for bishops and nobles vying for control. The cathedral of San Martiño, a mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles, stands as a testament to this era. Yet, while Santiago de Compostela stole the spotlight as the Camino’s crown jewel, Ourense became a quiet refuge for pilgrims seeking healing in its thermal waters before their final push to the coast.

Ourense in the Modern Era: Industrial Decline and Rural Exodus

Fast-forward to the 20th century, and Ourense’s narrative took a darker turn. Unlike coastal Galicia, which thrived on fishing and trade, inland Ourense suffered from Spain’s rural exodus. Young people fled to cities like Vigo or Madrid, leaving behind aging villages and abandoned pazos (traditional manor houses). The 2008 financial crisis hit hard, with unemployment rates soaring above 25%.

The Thermal Renaissance

But Ourense refused to fade. In the 2010s, the city rebranded itself as "Termalía", leveraging its geothermal heritage to attract wellness tourism. Luxury spa hotels like Augas Santas and public thermal pools like Chavasqueira became symbols of renewal. Yet, this revival faces a looming threat: climate change.

Ourense vs. Climate Change: A Hotter, Drier Future

Galicia is known for its "green Spain" image, but rising temperatures are altering the landscape. Ourense, already one of Spain’s hottest cities, recorded its highest temperature ever in 2022: 44.5°C (112°F). The Miño River, the city’s lifeline, has seen water levels drop alarmingly during recent droughts.

The Thermal Waters at Risk

The same geothermal springs that define Ourense rely on underground aquifers vulnerable to overexploitation and shifting rainfall patterns. Scientists warn that without sustainable management, the As Burgas could one day run dry—a devastating blow to the city’s identity.

Rural Fires and Abandoned Land

Climate change has also turned Galicia into a tinderbox. In 2017, wildfires killed 4 people in Ourense province and destroyed 15,000 hectares. Depopulation exacerbates the problem: with fewer farmers to maintain terraced fields, invasive species like eucalyptus (planted for paper pulp) fuel hotter, faster fires.

Ourense’s Fight for the Future

The Green Energy Gamble

Ourense is betting on renewables to secure its future. Geothermal projects like Sto. Adrián aim to heat public buildings using the earth’s natural energy. Meanwhile, solar farms dot the countryside, though locals debate their impact on traditional vineyards.

Cultural Preservation in a Warming World

From the Festa do Boi (a medieval-style festival with fire and oxen) to the revival of queimada (a flaming Galician punch), Ourense clings to traditions even as climate pressures mount. The city’s Museo Arqueolóxico now includes exhibits on how ancient Galicians adapted to environmental shifts—a lesson for today.

The Pilgrimage Economy Reimagined

With the Camino de Santiago attracting record numbers, Ourense is positioning itself as a sustainable stopover. Initiatives like "Slow Tourism" promote off-season visits to reduce overcrowding and carbon footprints. Some pilgrims even arrive by train, skipping the airport altogether.

A City Between Past and Future

Ourense’s story mirrors global crises: climate migration, rural decay, and the scramble to preserve heritage in a disposable age. But its resilience—from Roman engineers to modern geothermal pioneers—offers a blueprint for adaptation. As the world grapples with overheating, this small Galician city reminds us that survival isn’t just about technology, but remembering what makes a place unique.

Whether its thermal waters keep flowing another 2,000 years depends on choices made today. For now, Ourense stands as a living archive of human ingenuity—and a warning of what’s at stake if we fail to act.

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